Live Fire Cook
matthew burgess
If you care about what you cook, you should care about what you cook with
I found myself standing in a field Staring into English countryside, ankle-deep in cold mud, beside a man covered in soot. Matt Williams, founder of Whittle & Flame. There was something quietly extraordinary about him, calm, articulate, with a deep respect for the land.
We were preparing to cook for two thousand people on a Lang smoker the size of a train, a steel-clad beast I barely understood, let alone cooked on. While I cooked, we talked for hours about wood, heat, and the unseen craft behind fuel. Then Matt turned to me and asked, “Do you know where your charcoal comes from?”
I didn’t. For decades I’d obsessed over the origins of my food, the farms, the growers, the sea, but never the fuel that gave it purpose. Matt smiled and said, “If you care about what you cook, you should care about what you cook with.” That hit hard.
Now, in 2026, I stand as an advocate for British-made, sustainable charcoal. Not because it is fashionable, or that conversation I had with Matt, but because it is necessary. In Māori culture, we honour Papatūānuku, the earth mother, who gives us the bounty’s we enjoy. Fire is sacred to us, not only as heat but as life, a living connection between air, trees and soil. To burn responsibly, to cook with awareness, is an act of deep respect. It is how we protect the land for our children and theirs.
The United Kingdom has changed in the twenty-seven years I’ve called it home. Food has become more open, more curious, more rooted in story. Yet there is still so much to learn about where things come from, and why that matters.
My life’s purpose through Kaiwhenua and through the work they do with House of Charcoal is to remind people that cooking from the land isn’t nostalgia. It’s belonging. It’s respect for the soil beneath us and for those who tend it. It’s about fire, wood, and time, and the care it takes to do things properly.
If I can leave one small part of this world better than I found it, the soil, the people, the quiet introspective shared around a fire, then I’ve done my work. Fire is not destruction. It’s connection. Smoke carries memory, and food, when made with intent, becomes a beautiful promise passed from one generation to the next.
I’ve had a kaitiakitanga (guardianship)
proverb tattooed on my back since I became a chef:
He taonga nō te whenua me hoki anō ki
te whenua
What is given by the land should
return to the land.
That isn’t just something I believe. It’s how I cook, how I work, how I live.
Our British Charcoal. Your essential ingredient.
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